Trousers Pattern

Hedeby harbour, 8th-10th century. Narrow tapered crotch gusset, and parts of legs and seat of a pair of baggy trousers. All pieces are creased, suggesting pleating. Some pieces are red, some green , but no dye analysis has been performed. The crotch panel (H72 A-a, H91A) is made of a fairly solid fabric, whereas the legs (H72 A b-g) are of thin, loosely woven material (like crepe), possibly folded double (Hägg, 1984).

H72A
crotch (a), and edges of six pieces (b-g) of cloth sewn to it (legs and seat).
  1. crotch, tabby (plain weave), rep (ribbed) on weft. Z/Z spun, 21 x 8 threads/cm, red. Thickness 1 mm.
  2. ?seat, fine crepe-weight tabby (plain weave) thickness 0.5 mm, Z/Z spun 18 x 11-12 threads/cm, green.
  3. front of leg, red, similar to b, Z/Z 25 x 18 threads/cm.
  4. front of leg, red, similar to b, except Z/S 17 x 10-11 threads/cm.
  5. gusset or rear of leg, green, similar to b, except Z/S, 17 x 11 threads/cm.
  6. gusset or rear of leg, green, similar to b, except Z/S, 12-14 x 10 threads/cm.
  7. ?seat reinforcement in the seam between a and b, similar to b, no other details, little remains.
H72B
?part of leg, similar to H72A-c, red, Z/Z 25 x 16-18 threads/cm.
H91A
?upper part of crotch panel H72A-a, fragments of crepe-like material attached to sides.
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